This wall is primarily famous for a problem currently known as Freak Brothers, a steep clean line on the left. However a number of other more moderate problems exist further right as well as a long traverse. Topping out is problematic owing to the extensive low-angle slab above so judicious retreat options include downclimbing adjacent features or jumping.
Where the Monkey Sleeps V10/11
FA Jay Droeger mid 90s
Jay had this striking thin seam pegged at V8. Tyler Landman flashed it, thinking it was new and graded it V11, naming it Freak Brothers II after a problem in Switzerland. Taller folks may find it V10, shorter people more like V11. Find a striking black wall just right of where the approach trail meets the cliff band. Start at the obvious poor break and stretch left to a terrible seam. Reach right to a bad crimp, reset and bump left, aiming for a jug. Jump or climb down on the left. A decent landing but a spotter is advised due to the slope below the problem.
Freak Accident V12
FA Tyler Landman 2008
Tyler Landman added a start coming in from the right starting on the obvious vertical crack. Lousy feet and small awkward grips lead to the previous problem. Here's the video. Registration required at the site, which is well worth the time.
For even fuller value tack on the whole traverse of the cliff band. This could be quite hard.
Nursing Home Traverse V?
More info needed here re: difficulty and FA
A lengthy excursion across the entire cliff band. Waiting for specifics on grade.
4 comments:
I believe either Jay Droeger or Charley Bentley did this problem originally. I remember going to it back in '95 or '96.
Hi Peter--I think Jay gets credit for this one
Hi Peter... and Peter, I like the blog. As for the name, I called it 'Where the Monkey Sleeps.'
It felt quite powerful at the time, but not the most challenging I'd done. I'd never climbed harder than V10, so as for a grade.... ?
Thanks Jay. I'll do the update.
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